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Honey was an important food for the ancient Irish, used as a sweetener but also to flavour savory dishes, and as the raw material for mead. At the superb Rathmullan House in Rathmullan, County Donegal, near Lough Swilly in the far northern reaches of Ireland, this soup is made with heather-scented honey from nearby Glenvar. As usual in Ireland, “turnip” means rutabaga, though white turnips may be used in this dish, too.

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Nothing ever really stays the same. Jeanne Quigley on how seriously some of the country's leading owners take improvements. If there is one common thread, it's the importance of the customer.

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