Myrtle Allen is a national treasure. Everyone who knows anything about proper Irish food knows that. She’s a real culinary heroine without whom the food culture of this country would not be the way it is today. And this establishment, the elegant, East Cork country home she shared with husband and their children, is where it all began.
You don’t really get a sense of just how important this place is on the Irish food scene until you make the pilgrimage here, to walk through the front door into the wide entrance hall, and just let the atmosphere hit you. Then it all slots into place – and you begin to grasp exactly why this is THE Mecca of real Irish cooking. And if you love food at all, the sheer drive of the woman behind it simply blows you away. On our visit, she happily escorted us round the house, and told us why she began to support the local producers in the area. She wanted to keep them in business. When she was in the kitchen herself, Mrs Allen made sure that everything the Ballymaloe land and gardens could not provide for the menu was sourced as near to home as possible. And that ethos remains to this day.
Now the house is in the loving care of an Allen son, Rory, with his wife Hazel. It has retained every bit of the charming, family home atmosphere it always had. These days though, the ‘family’ is made up of the hundreds of visitors who pass through its doors every year. Everyone is looked after like real flesh and blood, and children are especially welcome. From the moment you arrive to the moment you leave – you’ll feel this house is your home, the staff your staff. If you are staying here for any length of time, you won’t be long settling in, and soon getting into the habit of retiring to the drawing room after supper to listen to Rory and whichever other musicians are on hand put on an evening’s after dinner entertainment. Watch out if you have any bit of a singing voice – you might be asked to join in - as were several guests the night we stayed. This is no place to be shy now. You’re in Cork, where the craic is mighty. And when you have partaken of the wonderful home cooked delights the Ballymaloe chefs turn out every evening, you’ll feel bolstered and brave enough to tackle anything - from a quick joke to an Irish dance. We saw it happen!
Dinner is served in the formal dining room, and on busy days and weekends, extends through to a pretty garden room and conservatory extension. It’s normally six courses including cheese, dessert and coffee with petit fours. Choose from delights like the chilled Organic Cucumber soup with Ruby beetroot that we ate, made from vegetables from Ballymaloe’s garden. Follow with a pick from little appetizers like Ballycotton Mackerel with Parsley and Lemon butter, or a terrine of local Pork, Spinach and Garden Herbs. Mains include Ballycotton Turbot with Hollandaise sauce, a classic dish we couldn’t resist, having once watched Myrtle prepare it on a Rick Stein programme years ago. The cheese trolley, which features an array of local specimens in prime condition, and the old fashioned dessert trolley, are very much part of the scene here, and we can only say we are delighted! It means, particularly in the dessert department, you can have a sliver of which ever you fancy – and you will fancy everything! We enjoyed Myrtle’s signature Carrigeen Moss pudding served with brown sugar, a few poached plums and a thin wedge of pear and almond tart. Well. It would’ve been impolite to refuse, now wouldn’t it? The wine list is extensive and takes ages to browse. There’s something for everyone, including pre supper fine champagnes, after dinner Port and Madeira and a comprehensive selection of old and new world wines.
Breakfast is one of the specialities of the stay here. When you rise from peaceful slumber in one of the house’s very comfortable bedrooms, with garden views, you’re bound to feel a little peckish. You won’t be disappointed with the choice of freshly squeezed citrus juices, Ballymaloe Nut and Grain Muesli, Macroom Oatmeal Porridge and fresh compotes of prunes, apricots, banana and raisins. A table of homemade breads with Ballymaloe marmalades and preserves to go with them is an invitation to be greedy! And if you have room, choose from hot freshly cooked dishes like the Full Irish with Ballymaloe’s free-range eggs, or fresh kippers and other fish as available. Like we said, you won’t be disappointed. But you will be replete. If you are visiting the area, or staying at the house and not in the mood to travel, it’s worth booking for the tempting four-course lunch of seasonal specialities too.
On the grounds there’s an outdoor pool, gardens and vegetable gardens and the Ballymaloe Shop next door which stocks everything and anything a keen cook needs. Children are well catered for – and have their own dining times for tea. Myrtle is a great believer in filling the house with children and it makes it feel like home. Isn’t that where we started? For as long as you’re here, Ballymaloe is your home from home.
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