Well the team at Jaipur have done it once again, owner Asheesh Dewan and Executive Chef Sunil Ghai have brought their eclectic taste of India to the fortunate food lovers of Greystones, Co Wicklow. The exotic flavours of the spice markets of Madras are reflected in all the enticing and intriguing dishes on offer. Balance, elegance and a real sense of a story or journey in pretty much everything on the menu and the elegantly styled décor is charmingly complemented by the unobtrusively attentive service.
The setting may be modern but internally you are quickly transformed to an eclectic take on the exotic; India in all its glory as reflected in dark red and gold voile blinds, ornate columns and warm tones. This shopping centre may be far from the spice markets of Madras, but there is a stylish attempt to transport you.
This is ably supported by the food, under the watchful eye of executive chef for the group, Sunil Ghai. Starters play a delightful tune ranging from traditional chaats, kebabs and tikka to more western themes like salads, made up of mushrooms, pear and caramelised walnut with pickled beetroot.
Be brave, you will be rewarded with the likes of Bhatti Ka Khargosh, Rabbit tikka steeped in brown onion, spice rub and plum chutney; or Keda Tikka, Spiced fried Dingle crab cakes stuffed with tangy shrimp and coastal spices with cous cous salad and dill yoghurt.
Main courses are equally enticing and intriguing: pick from Jhinga Malai, Jumbo prawns in onion and coconut sauce with roasted cumin and cardamom; Murgh Hakhan Palak, Delhi style chicken with onion, tomato masala finished with cream, fenugreek and fresh baby spinach; or Pork Vindaloo, 18-hour marinated Fermanagh rare breed black pork chop with vindaloo masala and mustard tempered savoy cabbage and sweet Indian sauerkraut.
Now for those of you expecting a searingly chilli-hot experience from the latter this is a good example of just how seriously good the food is at Chakra. This is a complex, well-thought out dish using impeccable Irish produce of the best kind treated with real skill. And the same goes for everything else; balance, elegance and a real sense of a story or journey in pretty much everything on the menu. Desserts too are given serious billing, as is the wine list and the elegantly styled décor is charmingly complemented by the unobtrusively attentive service.
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