Back in the day, Italian restaurants in Ireland, offered a basic menu of pizza and pasta. Most of them were little better than the so-called 'red sauce joints' so abhorred in the U.S., but then, something changed. Along came Eileen Dunne and her husband, Stefano Crescenzi and together, they began importing top class Italian cheese, salumi and wine and also began seriously thinking of combining the wonderful produce available on these shores with the equally wonderful produce of regional Italy. This, together with a growing knowledge of and desire for authentic Italian cooking raised the game for the Italian-Irish restaurant community and L'Officina, Kildare is a shining example of those new, ameliorated standards.
The room at L'Officina, Kildare is big, bright and brimming with atmosphere. The walls are a lush purple, the floors rustic oak and one entire wall is filled with a stainless and wood combination shelf filled to the brim with olive oil, pasta, rice, wine and coffee. The kitchen is open and visibly at work is a brigade of confident chefs, barely with the time to look up from their stations! The menu is a combination of classic L'Officina staples: fettuccine with organic pork and beef ragú (wonderfully tasty, chunky and garlicky), saltimbocca di pollo (free range Irish chicken with IGP Villani mortadella, marjoram and white wine), fagioli e salsiccia (the classic Tuscan sausage and borlotti bean stew in a rich tomato sauce) and a collection of lighter options for lunch and breakfast dining. There is a wonderful focaccia and ciabatta menu too. Think roasted peppers and Italian sausage, roasted ham and provolone or grilled aubergine, mozzarella and rocket.
If you need sustenance before a day of shopping, for breakfast, there are wonderful combinations of eggs, salumi, croissants, scones and all kinds of delicious preserves and jams to spread on the wonderful toasted in-house breads. But it is with the clever combining of Irish and Italian that L'Officina really comes alive. One entire page of the menu is devoted to the real partnering with local producers and creating Italian-Irish dishes that showcase the best of both countries regional produce. For example, grilled ring of Kerry lamb is marinated in olive oil and herbs and served with typical roasted rosemary potatoes. Smoked Irish salmon is served on top of a slather of mascarpone and brown soda. Both are delicious and only beaten by the fabulous 'Irish' lamb stew, given an Italian twist with herbs and a deft Italian hand in the kitchen. For this, L'Officina work with a local lamb farmer and agree to buy a whole lamb, using every bit of the animal, shoulder for the stew, mince for ragu and centre loin chops for the specials!
Jonathon runs a tight ship here, judging perfectly the balance between efficiency and warmth. All bread, cakes and pastry are made in-house. Jams and chutneys are from G's Jams. Provenance is clearly displayed and produce is obviously sourced with pride and passion. A real treat after a hard day's bargain hunting!
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