Exchequer (The)

Wholesome, fresh, simple food accompanied by a concise but exciting cocktail menu, an extensive range of worldly beers, delicious wines, served in casual, relaxed and comfortable surroundings

What is a gastropub? Opinions differ on this question but one thing is certain, Ian Tucker, Peter Rock and head chef Lee Doyle’s Exchequer pub in Dublin 2 is as close as we get in an Irish setting. They have successfully mixed the classic ‘gastro’ distressed or vintage look with contemporary styling (high tables at the front with stylish, green leather high stools, wooden floors, casual dining room at the back, funky floating metal booth) and created a wonderful convivial space where young trendsters rub shoulders with families sharing a Sunday roast (more of which anon) and all seem to have a wonderful time.

It is hard to define the true gastro-pub menu but one thing is certain. Simplicity is at its heart, un-cheffy food, rustic presentation, bold flavours and a keen eye for provenance. All of these elements are here with a front page list of solid producers. Take James McGeough’s cured meats, offered on the menu with two (changing) artisan cheeses and with a suggested of Ciu Ciu Bachus Piceno or, if you would rather, chief bar tender, Darren Geraghty will suggest a micro-brewery beer from his fantastic, independent collection. Touches like this make The Exchequer a force with which to be reckoned!

On our recent visit, the front of house team welcomed us with open arms. Ian Tucker is a wonderful front of house presence, judging the table absolutely perfectly and seating us (as requested) on one of the comfy high tables at the bright front section of the restaurant. On a sunny Saturday lunchtime, with newspapers in hand, there is no better place to be. The windows ajar, the weekender Dubliners passing, this is just the spot for indulging in the best sort of people watching. But oh the food! We start with a bowl of steaming cockles and mussels from West Cork’s Roaring Water Bay and they certainly do not disappoint. Molly Malone would be proud of these specimens, so plump, juicy and singing of the sea, steamed in white wine, cream, herbs and served with a mound of the best homemade chips and a hunk of dense white bread. Alongside, the lightest beignet of Five Mile goat cheese was stunning, served simply with an intensely tasty beet and raspberry purée and a little delicate baby cress. Afterwards, ling fingers, battered in the delicious Hilden brewery Belfast Blond lager are a wonderful take on commercial fish fingers but came as light and fresh as the mushy peas and tartar sauce that accompanied. More of those amazing chips were simply irresistible.

Blueberry and lemon trifle and homemade seasonal fruit jelly and ice-cream were both incredible in equal measure but the skill of the kitchen was in evidence particularly in the delicate, zingy and fluffy trifle which is worth a visit for itself alone! Sunday lunch at The Exchequer has become the stuff of legends. If you book before Friday, you and three friends can order a whole roast rack of pork, a roast chicken or a seasonal roast with stuffing, roasties, mash and as much gravy as you need! This is a wonderful idea, the food is, as always, beautifully sourced and the guys really make you feel at home… without the washing up! If you fancy a bit of a boogie, you can stay after lunch and dance until the wee hours without changing venue.

Service at The Exchequer is warm and efficient, the space is bright and inviting and the whole experience is one of professional calm with real food knowledge and a serious emphasis on provenance. It’s more than that though. It’s a space, not just to have good food, but good times too. And we can’t argue with that!

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Contact Details

To Contact a Member Directly, please click on the email or website below

3-5 Exchequer Street
Dublin 2
+353 (0) 1 6706787
Email: info@theexchequer.ie
Web: www.theexchequer.ie

 

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