In 1999, on a little travelled street, off Dublin’s Merrion Row, Eric and Michelle Robson opened a little wine bar in a re-furbished Georgian building. Their vision was clear; to serve a wide selection of good wines, with many by the glass, and to serve simple, well-sourced nibbles, with an emphasis on organic meats. Since then, their dream has grown into one of the most popular spots to enjoy a post-work glass of decent wine with a food offering that is much more than secondary to the wine.
Anthony Robineau runs the original of the Ely stable and he does so with cool style and sophisticated elegance. The room is filled with character, distressed floors in the main area and a raised area facing the street. We begin with a steaming bowl of Galway mussels, cooked classically, in a white wine, cream garlic and herb sauce. The mussels, from Killary Harbour, are plump and juicy and served with a slice of delicious brown soda bread and another of the most delicious sourdough.
With this, a glass of '09 Kremstal Gruner Vetliner is the perfect choice, aromatic and clean with wonderful citrus notes. To follow, a glass of Domaine de Millet rosé worked a treat with the West cork crab open ravioli with ver jus, ginger cream, spring peas and asparagus is rich and indulgent , the crab only narrowly surpassed by the Ely Easter kid goat, served as a cassoulet of roasted leg, braised foreshank, loin and offal sausage and vegetables. This is a real treat, catch it in season if you can! Deserts too are wonderful. We chose a buttermilk cherry pannacotta, rich and malty and offset by a lemon and lime syrup, a piece of crystallised mint and most importantly, a glass of Pieropan Recioto di Soave...delicious!
For lunch, book early, as the place gets full almost immediately. All the meat comes from a family organic farm in Carron, Co Clare. Try the organic bangers and mash. This has become something of a signature here...and rightly so. It is real comfort food, served with creamy mashed potato, peas and shallots. Choose a glass of wine from the ninety plus available by the glass. Ask for a platter of their Irish and continental cheeses, served with their own pear chutney and biscuits. Sit back, relax and consider another bottle!
Ely in Ely Place has become a firm favourite on the Irish culinary landscape. It has grown up and evolved over the years since it opened and has definitey become a genuine favourite of ours in every way. Long may it continue!
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