Barron’s Bakery in the pretty Waterford village of Cappoquin is probably the oldest bakery in Ireland. One thing’s for sure, there’s not another which has the original Scotch brick ovens that bake the really special kind of bread this bakery is famous for. Now in the hands of Esther Barron, the bakery employs the same traditional bread making methods used since it was opened in 1887 by her grandfather John Barron. After the death of John, Esther’s father Joe continued the business until she joined him in 1975. In 1993, Esther’s husband, Joe Prendergast joined forces with her, and the pair have run the business together ever since.
The Scotch brick ovens, installed in the 1940’s by Joe Barron, are really a sight to be seen. These two diesel powered ovens, both with heavy black cast iron arched doors, are lit each morning in the early hours, and need a good couple of hours to come to the right temperature before work can begin. Each oven, built into the original bakery wall, measures twelve by twelve feet and has a brick lined floor on which the loaves are placed. The brick built dome shaped ceiling helps the air circulate, so cooking is even. There are no thermostats here – just pure baker’s intuition, so skill levels must be second to none to use these ovens properly. Luckily, Esther inherited her father’s skills and has worked many hours making loaves of all shapes and sizes. Nowadays though, she employs expert bakers who also have the level of intuition and patience required to make bread the Barron way.
Bread is baked on what’s called ‘falling heat’ which means it is slow baked in exactly the right conditions to produce light crisp loaves with a unique taste, texture and crust. Each loaf is placed in the oven by hand; using a long handled baker’s ‘peel’ to place them right to the back of the oven, and then removed the same way. There’s little in the way of mechanics involved here, except for an industrial sized mixer to make the dough from unbleached French flour and yeast. Breads are hand moulded and proved naturally, which adds to the flavour and texture. Under the baker’s table lie ancient blackened bread moulds of all shapes and sizes, all of which have their own story to tell if only they could talk! Some of them date back to Esther’s father’s day and have names like Ridgey Pan – a loaf tin with ridges in the base – and Long Pan. Barron’s also bake the original Turn Over Loaf, in a two and a half foot long tin, which is then broken into pieces known as ‘hands of bread’. These are so named because you can hold one hand of bread between the crook of your elbow and the base of the fingers. There are three hands per tin and the whole loaf has a light but close texture, allowing a billowing dark brown crust of the sort said to make your hair curl! Barron’s also make old fashioned butter loaves – a sweet version of a normal pan, barn brack with the addition of spices and dried fruits, seed loaves and traditional Irish brown soda bread. The famous Waterford Blaa – a soft bread roll brought to the area by the Huguenots, is also here. Over the years, elegant Gateaux, individual pastries such as Vanilla Slices, Chester Cake and Chocolate Truffle Buns, cakes like old fashioned handmade Battenberg , fresh fruit tarts, pies and crumbles, and savoury quiches have all been added to the Barron range, all handmade and beautifully presented. And the award winning Cornerstone Loaf, healthy brown seed bread packed with goodness, is named after the large cornerstone which protrudes from a row of terraced houses just up the road. In days where emigration was rife, those leaving their beloved village would chip a piece off the stone and take it with them – a little piece of home in case they never returned. The success of the Barron’s Cornerstone Loaf also created Cappoquin’s annual Cornerstone Festival, started by Joe and Esther with several other members of the community, to celebrate the good wishes and community spirit shown when the bread won its award at the RDS in 2005.
The original bakery and shop now houses the working kitchens and adjoining these is Barron’s Coffee Shop established in 1983 by Esther. She had always wanted to expand the business with a café which served all the bakery’s wonderful goodies so when the town’s saddlery premises next door became available, she jumped at the chance to realise her dream. The building, where as a child she watched the local saddler sitting in the window sowing leather, is now a pretty café and bread counter, packed to the brim with loaves, cakes, tarts, gateaux and all manner of good things. Each day, a simple menu is displayed on the counter. There’s always a fresh soup like the fragrant Mushroom Soup which was on offer the day we visited. Also on the menu were home spun hot main courses like home chicken pie, bacon pie and courgette quiche, served with salad and a choice of sandwiches and filled blaas. Sweets include the divine Barron’s Bread and Butter Pudding, Pear and Almond Tart and continental style Apple Strudel or any of the buns and pastries on display. Enjoy these with a cup of tea or coffee – and we bet you won’t resist buying a few buns, a cake, and certainly some of the bakery’s lovely bread to take home you afterwards.
Here is an iconic food destination. Make sure you visit. Barron’s breads are also available from retail outlets within an eleven mile radius of the shop.
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I live in Cork and many an occasion I would either drive to the bakery or to Dungarvan on a thursday to get my hands on the bread, I grew up beside such a bakery and when I close my eyes on that first bite I travel back in time over 40 years, its so nice to know that Barrons can deliver such fond memories of my childhood gone by. Well done Barrons and thank you for such fond memories compliments of your fine breads. Derek.
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