It is hard to say when the story of Goatsbridge Trout really begins. Is it with the monks who fished on the banks of the Little Arrigle at Jerpoint Abbey in the twelfth century? Is it with Padraig Kirwan who, along with wife Rita, developed a business selling trout to local Kilkenny restaurants and hotels in the 60's and 70's? The truth is that it really doesn't matter. In fact, the truth is that Goatsbridge Trout is about all of its history.
Its custodians today are Padraig's son, Ger and his wife, Mags and there is something quite infectious about this duo's passion for their product. Their dynamism and enthusiasm are apparent after only a couple of minutes in their company but more importantly, their passion is evident in their product. When we visit them at their home on the trout farm, just outside Thomastown, we are immediately invited to grab a chair at the kitchen table and join them for a feast of fish. Delicately smoked trout, with nutty brown bread is followed by fillets of fresh trout with a ground almond and mayo crust, grilled and served simply with baby boiled potatoes. We munch happily on the delicious pink flesh as the Kirwans tell us the story of their product and display the determination and love with which they develop their business. Outside are the sounds of flowing waters, jumping fish and industry in the making.
The trout are of the rainbow variety. The Kirwans work with a single hatchery, taking the fish through their fifteen to twenty four month cycle and through the entire farming cycle of production, harvesting, processing, which requires gutting, filleting and pin boning. The fish live primarily in natural, earthen ponds and are moved according to size and weight. They range from three hundred grams to one and a half kilos and are available to retailers, fishmongers and chefs based on their size and service requirements. The Kirwans are fastidious about their eco credentials and cite sustainability as one of their primary concerns. To this end, they offer re-stocking services to many trout fishing destinations and count Mount Juliet and the K-club among their venerable past customers.
The development of the smoked product has been a personal project of Mags. Working closely with a local artisan smokehouse, she has modified and tweaked the smoking process until she was happy that the true character of the fish remained and was able to shine through the smokiness. The result is a magnificent, premium product, hot smoked, filleted and remarkably... boneless! The smoke flavour is subtle, allowing the delicate fresh water flavour of the trout to triumph!
There is no doubt of the quality of this product, the real proof is in the flavour and what a flavour that is. It is a real winner from every point of view. The farm is pristine, using only the best feed, ethical practices and giving more than due respect to the Little Arrigle river that flows through it. The Kirwans are fiercely passionate and determined operators. They know the value of the provenance of their product and are fully immersed in the history and hard work that is their heritage. Long may it continue.
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