It’s quite the surprise! Restaurants and cafés at department stores have long suffered a less than desirable reputation as second rate, generic outlets offering little more than canteen style food from vast hot counters. Not so at The Restaurant at Brown Thomas! Located on one of Dublin’s premier shopping streets in one of Europe’s most glitzy shopping outlets, Domini and Peaches Kemp and their excellent team deliver yet another outstanding Feast offering. The space itself is far from the usual dull affair, noticeably devoid of plastic and formica. Instead, it is stylishly appointed with shimmering glassware, gleaming silverware, bud vases on each table and linen napkins! Yet again, the extremely capable crew deliver wonderful, upbeat service in no small way owing to the leadership and competence of restaurant manager, Conrad Robinson.
And what of the food? Once again, the team from Feast deliver fantastic fare with real emphasis on locally sourced and artisan produce. Fellow Good Food Ireland Members regularly feature on the lovely menu including Silver Hill Duck, Declan Ryan’s Arbutus Bread, Killowen Yogurt, and McConnells Gourmet Smoked Food. Also to found here are Gold River Farm, O’Mahony’s free-range chicken, Hanlons and Terry Butterly’s smoked salmon. That menu is a perfectly pitched, wonderfully executed example of simple, delicious food, exactingly tuned to the needs of the shoppers (and browsers!) who eat there.
When we visit, on a Friday afternoon, the place is buzzing with happy diners chatting and proudly admiring their own and their companion’s recently purchased clobber! We are seated on a comfortable banquette and begin perusing the menu, which offers plenty of comfort food for the cold and tetchy shopper! We begin by splitting the stunning duck spring rolls. Perfectly moist Silver Hill Duck is shredded, mixed with fresh coriander and wrapped in crispy spring roll pastry is served with a chilli dipping sauce that has just the right amount of heat and sugar. Afterwards, a breast of parmesan crusted O’Mahony’s free range chicken is succulent, flavoursome and more-ish and served atop a heap of char-grilled potatoes, slow roasted vine tomatoes and some of Gold River Farm’s organic rocket salad. We reluctantly pass on the legendary chicken Caesar salad (also with free range chicken and organic, Irish Cos lettuce!) and opt instead for the organic burger, home-made from the amazing Good Herdsman organic beef and served with some of Declan Ryan’s sourdough bread bun, delicious shoestring fries, crispy onions and some of the most flavoursome aioli I have ever tasted…heaven on a plate! Afterwards, the famous Feast carrot cake lives up to all previous happy experience. It is rich and dense without being overly oily or cloying and again is made from the finest Irish carrots and topped with a divine cream cheese icing as is traditional.
The cooking here, under Executive Chef Gavin Pedersen’s watchful eye, is consistent, perfectly judged and simple. The produce is allowed to shine and the menu delivers exactly what the weary shopper wants. The service is warm and efficient and the management is clearly second to none. The Restaurant@Brown Thomas is a true gem and a little haven in our busy metropolis.
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3rd Floor Brown Thomas
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