Eileen Dunne and Stefano Crescenzi need little by way of introduction. Their flagship restaurant Dunne & Crescenzi on Dublin's South Frederick Street has become something of an institution, heralding a new kind of casual dining experience when it opened in 1999. Since then, the eponymous Dunne and Crescenzi name has come to stand for all that is good and great in Italian food in Ireland and from the opening of that first little space has sprung many other outlets, all with the same attention to simple, authentic quality. Their food ethos has carried through to their most formal dining space too. Nonna Valentina, on Dublin's Grand Canal is a wonderful little neighbourhood find. Like Dunne & Crescenzi, although the menu is Italian, all beef, pork, chicken and lamb is not only Irish, but is organic too. Located in the building, which formerly housed Kevin Thornton's Michelin starred establishment, the restaurant is over two floors and is simply furnished in cool (but not austere) Italian style. The real benefit of the location is the gorgeous view of the canal, with its ducks and swans, particularly as these views are from both upstairs and downstairs tables. It was at one of these, on a delightful sun- filled evening, that we began with a plate of delicious wafer thin Bresaola, Italian air- dried beef, served with peppery organic rocket leaves, Parmesan shavings and a drizzle of lemon juice. To follow, a plate of homemade fish ravioli, filled with herbs and flaked fish (the day's catch) and surrounded by an intensely flavoursome Dublin Bay prawn sauce. Puddings are so good, it is impossible to choose so best to opt for the dessert plate with booze drenched tiramisu, wobbly panna cotta, classic Italian Mimosa cake and a creamy-icey semi-freddo.
The wine list reads like a lexicon of small, interesting producers from Italy and Sicily and prices are incredibly keen, as they are directly imported from the winemakers.
Nonna Valentina is a charming restaurant in a wonderful location. Not to be missed!
Also visit their flagship restaurant Dunne & Crescenzi in Dublin city centre - the home of sophisticated Italian cuisine in Ireland.
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