Gardeners listen up! If you want a stroll round some of the most productive land in West Cork, Glebe Gardens is for you. This fabulous spot, owned by Jean Perry and her husband Peter, and situated just outside the village of Baltimore looking out over the inlet to the ocean, is picturesque in every way. The old house, bought by the family in the late 80’s, has been renovated to its former glory. Five acres of gardens provide a mix of scenery which takes in the bigger picture of its coastal location. But what’s really important for the food side of things here is that the carefully tended tunnels and potager garden here provide almost all the vegetables for the menu.
A potager garden is like an old fashioned kitchen garden, and the one at Glebe House comprises twenty-four beds. Crops include beetroot, runner beans, courgettes, peas, beans heaps of salad leaves, pumpkins and apples, all grown organically. The potager practices companion planting and everything planted is chosen by Jean Perry for its consistency of flavour. Stroll through the Herb Garden and catch fragrant wafts of fresh rosemary, mint, thyme and marjoram, floating on the wind. Also grown here are edible flowers and those used for plant dyeing, plus plants that will encourage wildlife and butterflies. Two polytunnels between them grow no less than twenty-five different varieties of tomato, including some unique ones like Green Zebra and Brown Berry. There are also cucumbers and peppers, and each tunnel has its own peach tree and grape vine. These tunnels really are places of rampant abundance, and everything here is utilised in the lovely café situated in the courtyard of the house. In the height of summer, when trade is exceedingly brisk, its not unusual to see Jean or one of her girls running outside to pick more salad leaves, tomatoes, and herbs as they run out during service. From garden to plate in moments - now that’s what we at Good Food Ireland call the ultimate in local, seasonal and fresh!
The Café at Glebe is located in what were once some old outbuildings, thoughtfully renovated with lime plasterwork and a rustic ambience. Jean’s husband/ is an artist and his works decorate the wall. The place has a ‘garden room’ feel and certainly reflects the fact that the gardens are the main source of supply of fresh produce. Menus change daily and are devised in accordance with whatever is available. Lunch is kept simple, with the menu compact, geared to make the most of the produce of the locality and gardens. Try the Taleteller with Crème France, Rocket, Lemon and Parmesan for starters, and follow with locally caught plaice from the boats of Baltimore, pan fried and served with Caper and Lemon Butter. Meat comes from Siberian butcher Tom Walsh and goes into traditional Irish stew or rich Beef and Mushroom Pie. Sally Barnes Woodcock Smoker artisan smoked fish products from Castle Townsend also make an appearance, along with the house’s own free range eggs and pork products from the All shires Cohere Free Range herd in Rosscarbery. Desserts include Elderflower Panna Cotta or Home Made Rose Petal Ice Cream. This year, dinner will be served in the Café for the first time, cooked by female chefs sourced from London’s River Café and Ballymaloe. The menu will be a little more sophisticated, but essentially, still based on good local ingredients and the garden’s own produce.
The house also enjoys several other garden areas, including a wild flower meadow which runs down to the sea, and the Harold-Barry Walk, constructed in memorial to Peter and Gwendoline Harold-Barry. It follows a curving path by the old railway line, takes in a wooden bridge and goes down to the meadow. The flower gardens are packed with varieties designed for cutting, and the blooms are used to decorate the tables of the café. At the end of the meadow is the latest addition at Glebe, the Amphitheatre which on summer evenings, hosts several musical events and plays. It’s quite the most beautiful spot to take in a bit of culture, being dug into the lawn right at the end of the garden. And if it’s been one of those long, hot West Cork summer days, free entertainment in the form of a stunning sunset just has to be seen to be believed.
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The Glebe
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