When The Winding Stair opened its door, as a restaurant, in August 2006, Dubliners flocked to see what all the fuss was about. Here was a restaurant serving simple, home-cooked and most importantly all Irish food in a little room overlooking the river Liffey. Gradually, people began to understand the idea. A gastro-pub style of cuisine but using only seasonal Irish produce where possible and an army of well-trained friendly staff who were ready to explain this ethos to the diners.
The room itself is always buzzing. Tables are small and chairs are Bentwood café style with people sitting in every available space. There are blackboards announcing changing daily specials, perhaps a plate of fried sweetbreads that the butcher sent or perhaps a darne of organic salmon, with chive mash and sorrel sauce. The menu reads like a lexicon of small, artisan, Irish producers. We started with a bowl of rich and creamy seafood chowder, filled with Frank Hederman’s smoked mussels, eel and just cut through with chunks of Fingal Ferguson’s fresh chorizo…so luxurious! We coupled this with some home-made white haricot beans, baked with organic tomatoes and served with some of Jane Russell’s famous Irish Bratwurst. Afterwards, the traditional collar of bacon is beautifully treated, cooked, as it should be with some new season Savoy cabbage and served with a mound of buttery mash and a mustard and parsley sauce. Organic chicken leg is equally delicious…served atop a lentil stew with lemon, thyme and roasted root vegetables.
Dessert is a seriously indulgent affair here. Debates rage about the inclusion of some lemon curd with the rich, steamed chocolate pudding but we love it! Some sticky pear and ginger cake, served with a dollop of organic vanilla ice-cream and some fair trade coffee completes a uniquely delightful experience. The wine list is vast but easily navigated and twenty wines by the glass change weekly and are displayed on a giant blackboard. The interesting beer list comprises mostly of boutique or micro-brewed beers and the sherry list is also impressive.
The venue had occupied a special place in Dubliner’s hearts, having been a famous landmark bookshop and café for many years and photographs of its famous visitors line the entrance to the bathrooms.
For a truly urban view over the river Liffey and the finest examples of Irish produce treated with care and respect, there is no better place the quirky Winding Stair. It’s always busy so book early to avoid disappointment!
To view a sample of our Menu please click here
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40 Ormond Quay
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