Chapter One

The welcome is legendary, the food spot on and the room, recently given a makeover, both welcoming and serious. Chef and owner Ross Lewis made his business home here over 10 years ago and has since then slowly built up a solid and loyal following who come to sample his seasonally driven food which makes much of artisan producers (they are given pride of place on the menu).

This is no one-man operation however, the team both front and back of house are a seemless whole. They know what they do and execute it with calm effiency and lots of smiles. The wine list is impressive, fairly marked up and wide ranging. For those heading for the nearby Gate Theatre there is a menu and synergy guaranteed to get you to your seats on time

Menu wise you can choose to dine a la carte or from the tasting menu. For those who opt for lunchtime there is also a set menu at €35 which is an out and out bargain. Provided that is, you avoid the supplements, €10 for the legendary charcuterie trolley, €8 for say, seas bream, roast fennel, braised squid, tomato and shellfish sauce and €5 for an extra cheese course.

But these are small matters. Even if you do opt for the supplement dishes lunch remains a bargain and easier to get a table than later in the week when things are generally full to capacity. The award of a Michelin Star in 2007 has done everything to increase the popularity of Chapter One. Thankfully this has not led to any fancification on the part of the kitchen or front of house. There is a solidity here which is a breath of fresh air.

And so to the food. Recent dishes enjoyed include Seared Tuna, Avocado Puree, Pea Shoots, Lime and Shallot Dressing which was delicate, elegant and entirely delicious in a sweet ocean kind of way. Duck Sausage, Cassoulet of Lentils, Apple and Horseradish Puree is a transformation of this rather humble way with meat into something that is deeply, deeply satisfying. This sausage also appears on the charcuterie trolley along with Terrine of Veal, Pear and Mustard Puree; Rabbit Rillette, Apple and Horseradish; Fingal Ferguson Salamis: Gubbeen, Chorizo, Salchicon; and Cured Venison, all accompanied by Watercress Salad with Hazelnut Dressing. If this sounds like a lot do not be put off, the devil is in the detail and this appears not just in the cooking but in the plating and portion size, a more perfect starter for a carnivore it is hard to imagine.

Main courses might be Loin of Venison, Creamed Savoy Cabbage, Roast Organic Beetroot, stuffed White Onion, pickled Walnut Vinaigrette, or Guinea Hen, Parma Ham Farce, Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi, Creamed Onion and Sage Compote, acidulated butter. Recently enjoyed were Hake, Braised Squid, Fennel, Tomato and Shellfish Sauce and a White Meat Torte, Garlic Emulsion, Peas a la Francaise, Red Wine Jus. Both were a study in detail.

Cheeses, a mixture of Irish and French are well-kept and refreshingly offered in two price brackets depending on how hungry you feel. Follow that with the likes of Lime Parfait, Mango Mousse, Vanilla and Mint, Gruel de Cacao Tuille, or Orange and Campari Jelly, Coffee Cream, Warm Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla Ice cream, and Apple and Raisin Clafoutis, Caramel Ice cream.

The intend is serious, the exectution charming. Decidedly one of the most enjoyable dining rooms in the capital.

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Contact Details

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18-19 Parnell Square
Dublin 1
+353 (0) 1 8732266
Email: info@chapteronerestaurant.com
Web: www.chapteronerestaurant.com

 

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